Computer Troubleshooting

Advanced Computer Troubleshooting and Repair Procedures

In this section we'll get into some of the more advanced areas of troubleshooting and repairs. If you have some basic mechanical abilities, you should be able to do most of these things yourself. If you're not comfortable going inside your computer, I suggest that you contact a professional. If, at any time, you feel nervous about doing anything I've suggested, then stop, take a deep breath, and ask yourself if you're sure you want to continue. If you're not sure of yourself, then stop and contact a professional. Two of the items that I'll cover, the CPU and the motherboard, do require advanced abilities. You should be very sure of your abilities before trying to do either of these types of repairs.

To access any of the internal components of your computer, you'll need to remove the cover or the access panel. Since there are so many different types of cases, I can't possibly begin to tell you exactly how to open it. Most cases just have a couple of screws that need to be removed to gain access. If you can't figure out how to open it, contact your manufacturer's technical support department.

I advise you to use a grounding strap before attempting to do any of these repairs. Static electricity can destroy any of the electronic components that you come in contact with. A grounding strap is a specially designed strap that goes around your wrist and clips to the computer chassis. In the event that you don't have a grounding strap, you can use the following method to try to dissipate any static electricity. Note: this is not the proper way to avoid static electricity, but it can do in a pinch. Make sure the computer is plugged into the wall with a standard three prong grounding plug. With the computer open, and you're ready to do whatever repair you're doing, touch a metal part of the computer case. After doing this, do not move your feet. If you do have to move your feet for some reason, touch the computer case again before touching any electronic component.

I've broken down these techniques and procedures into some of the various components in your computer. I've listed them in the order of ease of repair and the skills required.

Memory - Novice skills required
Add-on Cards - Novice skills required
Power Supply - Intermediate skills required
Hard Drives - Novice to intermediate skills required depending on repair
CPU - Advanced skills required
Motherboard - Advanced skills required

Memory

Memory, or RAM (Random Access Memory), is what your computer uses to store parts of programs that it's working with at the time. RAM comes in several different variations and speeds. If you suspect you have a memory problem, and you have multiple "sticks" installed in your computer, you can do a little trial and error to see if the memory (or which piece) is the culprit. If you only have one RAM module, you'll have to borrow a compatible stick from another computer, or just buy a replacement module (memory is cheap).

RAM is installed on the main board, or motherboard, of your computer. Each module is secured to the motherboard in one of two different ways: either by small metal clips, or larger, plastic release pads. To remove or install the module(s), you'll need to use the method appropriate to your motherboard.

Make sure, before you remove any RAM module, that the computer is unplugged (if you're not using a grounding strap, make sure you ground yourself by touching a metal part of the case before unplugging it). Even when a computer is turned off, especially with newer computers, the memory sockets can still have power to them. Removing a memory module while the socket still has power can destroy the module.

Remove the RAM by following these simple procedures. On older computers there will be a small, spring loaded, metal clip on each end of the module. Use a small screwdriver to push the clip away from the RAM module. Once both clips are released, the memory module will pop forward. You can then just grasp the module and pull it out. On newer computers there is a plastic release on each end. For this type, simply push the release down and away from the RAM module. Each side of the module will raise up slightly. Once both ends are up, just grab the module and lift up on it.

On both types of computers, you have to pay close attention to the locating tabs on the sockets and the corresponding notches on the RAM modules. With the older style modules there is a notch, or cutout on one end that corresponds to a raised section of the memory socket on the motherboard. On the newer style computers, the are one or more notches on the bottom of the memory module. These notches correspond to small tabs in the RAM socket(s) on the motherboard. On either type, the RAM can only be installed in the socket in one direction. Trying to force the module, can, and will, result in damage to the memory module or the motherboard.

Install the RAM by following these simple procedures. On older computers, make sure the cut out on the RAM is aligned with the raised pad in the memory socket and the ends of the module are aligned with the ends of the socket. Hold the RAM at about a 45 degree angle to the motherboard and push it firmly into the socket. Once you're sure that the module is seated, rotate it to the upright position until both clips latch. On newer computers, make sure you have the notches on the RAM module aligned to the tabs in the memory sockets on the motherboard. Also make sure that the release pads on both ends of the RAM socket are pushed out and away from the memory socket. Align the ends of the module to the sides of the socket; there are slots on each end (where the release pads are) that facilitate this alignment. Once the module is sitting in the socket, press alternately on each end until the module is fully seated and the release pads are upright. Most of the time, you will hear the release tabs click as they "lock" into place. If you don't hear them click into place, press inward, toward the RAM module, until you hear it lock.

As I said earlier, if you're troubleshooting possible memory problems and you have more than one RAM module, you can remove all but one module, turn the computer on and see if your problem goes away. If you still have the problem, substitute one of the other modules that you removed for the one that is still installed. If the problem goes away now, the faulty memory module is the one you just removed. If you still have a problem, substitute any remaining modules you have, one at a time. If, after swapping all the modules you have, the problem still persists, it's doubtful that the memory is at fault. It's still possible, but highly unlikely.

Add On or Peripheral Cards

Add on cards are numerous in bus (socket) type, and function. Some of the bus types that you might encounter are: ISA, EISA (very rare on PCs), MCA (only used on original IBM PCs from the 1980's) AGP, PCI, PCI-X (not common on PCs), PCIx1, and PCIx16. The different function these cards can perform include, but are not limited to: Video, multifunction I/O, USB, modem, sound, game port, and firewire. Note: AGP type cards are reserved for use with graphics cards only.

For the most part, these cards are removed and installed in the same manner. The two exceptions to this are AGP and PCIx16 cards. To remove any of these cards, except for the AGP or PCIx16 type cards, disconnect any cable attached to the card from the outside of the computer. Remove any cables that are attached to the card on the inside of the case (sometimes it's easier to remove the cables after you've removed the card). Unscrew the card attaching screw from the computer's case, or release the lock-down device if your cards are not attached to the case with a screw. Grasp the card firmly at the top edge of the card (make sure you've grounded yourself first) at pull the card up to disengage it from the socket. AGP and PCIx16 cards are removed in exactly the same way as described with the exception of disengaging it from the socket. At the back of the AGP bus (farthest away from the rear of the case) is a plastic tab that must be pushed to the side before the card can be removed. At the back of the PCIx16 card is a small release tab that must be pressed down (toward the motherboard) to release the card from the socket.

To install the cards, you do basically the reverse of the procedure that you used to remove the card. Before powering your computer back on, make sure that the card is fully seated in the slot. If the card is not fully seated in the socket, it can (and probably will) destroy the card.

Power Supply

The power supply is what distributes electrical power, at the correct voltages, to the various components and circuits in the computer. The power supply is relatively easy to replace as long as you pay close attention to where everything is plugged in before you remove it. Since you're not going to be removing pieces that really susceptible to damage from static electricity, a grounding strap is not really required for this procedure , but if you've got one, it certainly won't hurt to wear it.

Begin by unplugging the power cord from the outside of the case. There are several cables that attach to various components inside the computer. All of these cables need to be unplugged. Many of the cables just pull out. If you have a floppy drive, the plug on the power cable needs to be lifted up slightly before unplugging it. On older motherboards, the main power cords from the power supply to the motherboard are attached via two molded, 6 wire, plugs. These plugs need to be pulled up (until they stop) and then tilted slightly to remove them. On newer, ATX style boards, the main power cord to the motherboard is a 20 or 24 wire connector, plus, in most cases, an additional 4 wire connector. Both of these types of connectors have a plastic clip that you have to squeeze toward the molded connector to release the connector from it's socket. If you have a PCIe type video card(s), there will also be a similar style clip that must be squeezed to release it from it's socket.

Once you have all of the cables disconnected, from the outside of the computer, remove the 3 or 4 screws that secure the power supply to the case and remove the power supply from the case.

Installation of the power supply is basically the reverse of the removal. There are a couple of things to note for either style motherboard. On the older style board (with the two, six wire connectors), the two connectors need to be installed with the pair of black wires on each connector towards the center of the socket. When the plugs are properly installed, you will have four black wires at the center of the motherboard socket. To install the plugs to the motherboard, hold the wiring plug at a slight angle and hook the tabs under the upright section of the socket. Rotate the plug to an upright position and push down until the plug is fully seated on the socket. On the newer style motherboards, some have a 20 wire socket, and some have a 24 wire socket. This also holds true for the power supply. Some have a 20 wire connector and some have a 24 wire connector. Regardless of the style of the motherboard or the power supply, both types are interchangeable. If you have a 24 wire connector on your motherboard and a 20 wire connector on your power supply, you can purchase a 20 wire to 24 wire connector, but it's really not necessary.

Hard Drives

The hard disk drive is the main storage unit of your computer. It holds all the programs you have installed on the computer along with the operating system. There are several types of hard drives in use today, but you'll probably only encounter two, maybe three, different types. The two most common types of drives that are used in PCs today are IDE and SATA type drives. The other type that you might encounter is a SCSI type drive. When replacing a hard drive, you should use the same type to make the replacement easier. IDE drives have a four pin power connector with four individual wires and a forty pin flat data cable. SATA drives have two solid cables with molded connectors. Some SCSI drives look very similar to IDE drives. The difference is these drives is that the SCSI drives have a fifty pin cable instead of a forty pin cable. Other SCSI drives use a 68 pin cable, but the connector looks completely different than the IDE drives.

If you're having boot problems, there are a couple of different things you can try to reset the boot sector on the drive if you're using Windows XP or Windows Vista. You'll need the original (or an original) CD for your operating system. Insert the CD into your CD drive and turn your computer on. Depending on how your computer is setup, it should boot to the CD drive. If you're computer is not set up to boot to the CD before booting to the hard drive, you may have to do one of the following to get it to load the CD. If your computer will boot to the CD drive, you can skip the next two paragraphs.

Use this method if your computer gives you the option to select your boot device. While your computer is first booting and going through the POST processes, you may see (usually down near the bottom right of the screen) press F10 (or one of the other F keys) to select the boot device. If you see this, press whatever key is listed. At some point after the POST process, you'll get a screen that lets you select any boot type device that's attached to your system. Select your CD drive and press the Enter key.

Use this method if your computer won't boot to the CD and it doesn't give you the option to select your boot device. WARNING!! If not done correctly, the following procedures can render your computer inoperable While your computer is first booting and going through the POST processes, you should see press Delete (or some other key) to enter Setup. Press whatever key it says. At some point, you should end up in the BIOS setup screen. There are different options depending upon the BIOS manufacturer of your motherboard. Whatever BIOS you have, you need to be looking for a heading for Boot Order. This is usually listed under the Advanced BIOS setup options. You need to set it so that the first boot device is your CD drive. Once you've set this, exit back to the main BIOS setup screen and select the option to Save Settings and Exit.

You should now be able to boot the drive to the CD. Turn the computer on and let it load from the CD. Even though you have it set to boot from the CD drive, some computers will still show a message of "Press any key to boot from CD..." If you see this, just press the Enter key while the message is showing.

A temporary operating system will begin being loaded into memory. Once it's loaded, you'll see a screen with a couple of different options. One of these options is to Press R to repair an existing Windows installation. Press the "R" key and it will start loading the rest of what it needs. It will then ask you which installation you want to repair (even if you only have one operating system installed). Press the appropriate number, usually the number 1, and then press the Enter key. You'll then be presented with a DOS style screen with a "C:\Windows\ " prompt. At this point, type in FIXBOOT and press the Enter key. Eject the CD from your CD drive and reboot your computer. If it comes up right, you should be ok. If it still doesn't boot, reinsert the CD in the CD drive and reboot the computer. WARNING WARNING WARNING!! I have seen some cases where the next procedure has left a drive totally inoperable. If you want to continue, do the above steps to get back to the "C:\Windows\ " prompt. At the prompt, type FIXMBR. You will be presented with a large text box with a warning message. This is your last chance to back out! Press the ESC key to exit, or press the Enter key to continue. Remove the CD from the CD drive and restart the computer. With any luck, your computer will be back in operating order. If not, you'll probably need to replace the drive.

To remove the hard drive, open your computer and disconnect the power and data cables from the back of the drive. Some drives are attached directly to the computer and some are mounted on rails. If you can see screws that attach the drive to the computer, remove the four screws and slide the drive out of the computer. If you don't see the screws, your drive is probably mounted on rails. To remove the drive, you have to release the rails from the drive cage. This can vary depending on the computer manufacturer. Some have a button to release the rails, some have squeeze tabs on the rear of the rails, and some have no rails and are just held in with a locking mechanism. Whatever the type, you have to do whatever your computer requires to remove the drive.

Before installing the new drive, you need to compare the jumper setting on the new drive to the old one. On the drive (usually on the rear between the data and power connectors but sometimes on the circuit board of the drive) are small jumpers for either the cable configuration, or in the case of SCSI drives, for the SCSI address of the drive. On IDE drives, there are settings for Master, Slave, and Cable Select. Regardless of the type of drive, these jumpers on the new drive must be set to match the settings on the old drive.

Once you have the settings matched install the drive in the reverse order that you removed it. If you're using an IDE drive and your cable does not have a locating tab on the plug, the red stripe on the cable goes next to the power cable on the drive (providing the cable is installed properly on the motherboard).

After the drive is installed you'll need to reinstall the operating system. If you have a system restore CD that came with your computer, you'll need to use it to reinstall your operating system. If you don't have a restore CD, you'll need to use an original Windows CD. Insert the operating system CD or the restore CD in the CD drive and turn on the computer. Boot to the CD drive (you do remember how, right?) and follow the instructions on the screen to reload the operating system. If you're using a restore CD, depending on the computer manufacturer, your computer will be fully restored with all the drivers for your computer installed. The restore CD from some manufacturers (I know Dell restore CDs are like this) only restore the operating system and you'll have to use a separate CD that came with your computer to install the drivers. If you're not using a restore CD you'll need to install the operating system from the Windows CD and then install drivers for the various components in your computer. If you don't have the drivers CD or disks that came with your computer, you'll probably need to access the computer or motherboard manufacturer's web site to acquire the drivers.

Once the operating system and drivers are installed you can begin installing any software programs you have and restoring your old data (you do have a current backup, don't you?). After all this is done, your computer should be in tip top shape.

CPU - Advanced skills required

The CPU (Central Processing Unit) is the heart of the computer. It processes all the requests from the various components in the computers and tells each piece what to do and when to do it. Replacing the CPU requires extreme care to keep from damaging the CPU or the motherboard. There are basically only two CPU brands that you will find in PCs today. They are AMD and Intel. Both manufacturers have numerous types of CPUs with different socket types, speeds, and number of cores. A motherboard designed for an AMD CPU can't use an Intel CPU and vice-versa. Nor can you replace one socket type CPU for a different socket type, regardless of manufacturer.

Before continuing, be sure that you are properly grounded. I advise you to use a grounding strap before attempting to do any of these repairs. Static electricity can destroy any of the electronic components that you come in contact with. A grounding strap is a specially designed strap that goes around your wrist and clips to the computer chassis. In the event that you don't have a grounding strap, you can use the following method to try to dissipate any static electricity. Note: this is not the proper way to avoid static electricity, but it can do in a pinch. Make sure the computer is plugged into the wall with a standard three prong grounding plug. With the computer open, and you're ready to do whatever repair you're doing, touch a metal part of the computer case. After doing this, do not move your feet. If you do have to move your feet for some reason, touch the computer case again before touching any electronic component.

Almost all CPUs have some sort of cooling device attached to it to dissipate the heat that the CPU generates. The cooling device is usually a heat sink, a fan, or a combination of both. In almost all cases, the cooling device has to be removed before the CPU can be removed. To remove the cooling device, you'll basically need to examine it closely to see how it's attached. Remove the cooler and unplug the fan from the motherboard if it is so equipped. Alongside the CPU socket is a small lever that must be lifted or pushed down and to the side to release the CPU hold-down. Once the hold-down is released you can lift the CPU from it's socket.

Once you remove the cooling device you'll probably see some heat sink compound on both the cooling device and the CPU. I recommend using an alcohol pad to remove the old compound from both pieces. If you're replacing the CPU you don't need to worry about the compound on it. If you don't have an alcohol pad, you can use alcohol and a cotton ball. For proper cooling, make sure that all the compound is removed.

To install the new CPU, examine the pin or pad side closely and compare it to the socket. There is only one way to properly install the CPU in the socket. Once you know which way the CPU is to be installed, set it gently into it's socket and close the CPU hold-down and lock it into place. Before installing the the CPU cooler, place some thermal compound (I recommend using Arctic Silver) on the CPU according to the manufacturers instructions. Place the cooler on top of the CPU. Before "locking" the cooler down give it a little twist to help the compound fill the little crevices in the cooler and the CPU. If your cooler has a cooling fan, plug it back into the motherboard.

Motherboard - Advanced skills required

The motherboard is the main circuit board in the computer. It controls all the data flow between the various devices in your computer. Replacing the motherboard requires extreme care to keep from damaging the the motherboard, the CPU, or any of the components that are attached to it.

To remove the motherboard, begin by opening the case and laying it so that the motherboard is in a horizontal position. Unplug and label all of the cables that are plugged into the rear of the computer. Disconnect and label any and all cables that are attached to the motherboard or any of the add on cards in the computer. On older motherboards, the main power cords from the power supply to the motherboard are attached via two molded, 6 wire, plugs. These plugs need to be pulled up (until they stop) and then tilted slightly to remove them. On newer, ATX style boards, the main power cord to the motherboard is a 20 or 24 wire connector, plus, in most cases, an additional 4 wire connector. Both of these types of connectors have a plastic clip that you have to squeeze toward the molded connector to release the connector from it's socket. If you have a PCIe type video card(s), there will also be a similar style clip that must be squeezed to release it from it's socket.

Once you've removed all the cables, remove all of the add on cards. For the most part, these cards are removed and installed in the same manner. The two exceptions to this are AGP and PCIx16 cards. To remove any of these cards, except for the AGP or PCIx16 type cards, disconnect any cable attached to the card from the outside of the computer. Remove any cables that are attached to the card on the inside of the case (sometimes it's easier to remove the cables after you've removed the card). Unscrew the card attaching screw from the computer's case, or release the lock-down device if your cards are not attached to the case with a screw. Grasp the card firmly at the top edge of the card (make sure you've grounded yourself first) at pull the card up to disengage it from the socket. AGP and PCIx16 cards are removed in exactly the same way as described with the exception of disengaging it from the socket. At the back of the AGP bus (farthest away from the rear of the case) is a plastic tab that must be pushed to the side before the card can be removed. At the back of the PCIx16 card is a small release tab that must be pressed down (toward the motherboard) to release the card from the socket.

Once you've removed all the cards, locate and remove all the screws that attach the motherboard to the case. Gently lift the motherboard from the case and set it on a stable surface. You'll need to remove the RAM (memory) and the CPU from the motherboard to transfer it to the new motherboard.

Now it's time to install the CPU and the RAM on the new motherboard. To install the new CPU, examine the pin or pad side closely and compare it to the socket. There is only one way to properly install the CPU in the socket. Once you know which way the CPU is to be installed, set it gently into it's socket and close the CPU hold-down and lock it into place. Before installing the the CPU cooler, place some thermal compound (I recommend using Arctic Silver) on the CPU according to the manufacturers instructions. Place the cooler on top of the CPU. Before "locking" the cooler down give it a little twist to help the compound fill the little crevices in the cooler and the CPU. If your cooler has a cooling fan, plug it back into the motherboard.

Carefully lower the motherboard back into the case making sure that all of the connectors that protrude through the rear of the case are located in the proper position. Make sure that all of the little standoffs that the motherboard is screwed to are in the proper position to line up with the holes in the motherboard. When all is good, carefully place the motherboard on the standoffs. Start a screw into each standoff but do not tighten them until are the screws are started. Once all the screws are started, tighten them down snugly - do not over tighten.

You can now begin replacing all the add on cards and cables that you removed previously. To install the cards, you do basically the reverse of the procedure that you used to remove the card. Before powering your computer back on, make sure that the card is fully seated in the slot. If the card is not fully seated in the socket, it can (and probably will) destroy the card.

To reinstall the wiring on the inside there are a couple of things to pay attention to. On the older style board (with the two, six wire connectors), the two connectors need to be installed with the pair of black wires on each connector towards the center of the socket. When the plugs are properly installed, you will have four black wires at the center of the motherboard socket. To install the plugs to the motherboard, hold the wiring plug at a slight angle and hook the tabs under the upright section of the socket. Rotate the plug to an upright position and push down until the plug is fully seated on the socket. On the newer style motherboards, some have a 20 wire socket, and some have a 24 wire socket. This also holds true for the power supply. Some have a 20 wire connector and some have a 24 wire connector. Regardless of the style of the motherboard or the power supply, both types are interchangeable. If you have a 24 wire connector on your motherboard and a 20 wire connector on your power supply, you can purchase a 20 wire to 24 wire connector, but it's really not necessary. Do not install the power cord at this time.

Once that's done, connect all your external cables. Give everything another going over to make sure you didn't miss anything. Once you're satisfied that everything is installed and connected properly, plug in the power cord to the power supply. Turn your computer on. If everything comes up right then you're almost there. If your new motherboard is different from the one you replaced, you'll need to use the disk that came with the motherboard to load the additional drivers for anything that is built into your motherboard. The manual that came with the motherboard should outline the steps you'll need take to load all the drivers.